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Natasha Lehrer Lewis

Fiber artist and educator
  • about
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The Creation of.... Autumn Cowl

Natasha Lewis December 12, 2016

This cowl is a favorite of mine. Nuno felted and made with habotai silk, it has a touch-me-kind-of texture. I love the way the heavier fabric creates so much more surface dimension. It does take more effort to felt it, but every time I look back, I feel it is worth it. 

This was a seamless piece, meaning I used a resist that the silk was wrapped around. The seams are covered with wool so no sewing is required! You might recall that I originally got into nuno felting because of the no-sew-allure. But alas, it led me to sewing, so the joke's on me I suppose. 

I love trapping sequins in the surface of the nuno felt. Laid on top of the silk and trapped by my top layer of wool, this was a technique I first devised as a method to - gasp! avoid sewing! I first did this on a beautiful holiday poinsettia shawl with tiny red sequins. The sequins are more to decorate the back rather than the front, as they rarely show through the wool. However, with a flip of the scarf, you see the delightful back of it and the surprise of sparkle rewards. I like to have the back look just as appealing, especially on a scarf, because I know that despite all efforts, scarves will flip flop as you wear them, and with a little added effort in the design stage, the back can be beautiful too. You can even wear it reversed for a subtle color with texture and sparkle. It's a nice option to wear it with a print or something busier, when the occasion calls. 

My surface design is full of wonderful autumnal colors, sparkle thread (I love that thread with baby sequins on the thread!), curly Lincoln wool locks, and Angelina sparkles. All those fun additions were trapped by gossamer layers of wool on top, and the result is little bits peeking through. It reminds me of glorious fall days where the sun is warm but bright and makes the morning dew sparkle on every fresh turned leaf. One of my favorite seasons! 

The felting process totally transforms it, breathing life into and merging my fibers together so now these two very different materials are made one. It's truly miraculous, and yet so very simple. Soap. Water. Rhythmic rolling. It's then that I am alone with my thoughts and my art. It's very relaxing and rejuvenating.  When I am done with this process, something beautiful is born, something transformed. 

I will be honest. When I finished this, I did like it but something was not quite right. It didn't lay right on your neck and I didn't want to do what I knew I had to. So like all things, we put it away. For months. All projects do not end in artistic brilliance. I love it when they do! I feel like the heavens open and a host of angels sing the hallelujah chorus and a beam of sunlight shining down. But for the rest of those times that are slightly less glorious, I put on my thinking cap. Truly, not much of my work is done the minute I finish felting. Sometimes there are alterations and more felting to follow. Sometimes there are embellishments, like beads added, or thread painting done to add interest. Sometimes things just sit until I can think up the next path.

So I did what I had to do. I cut it. Nooooooooooo you say, as a scream of anguish is let out. Cut!?! What!?! Isn't there some other way? Some other option?

Sooner or later, we all attack things with scissors. and ack, it wasn't that bad after all. Move slow and deliberate. Remember every flaw and mistake is just a design opportunity! (She says shakily with scissors in hand!) I cut that cowl and added a twist and sewed it back together. An expert surgeon making wrong right again. It worked and that cowl was more beautiful than ever. I added a really fun pin made with... guess it.... leather from Shibori Soiree.  I even used some felt to make a "feather" which I really loved, along of course with real feathers. Some dangling charms and crystals and it was complete. The pin is removable for washing, a feature very important to me. I loved that pin and definitely want to play with more of that style and fabric combination.

This piece was shown at the Fine Art of Fiber Fashion Show at the Chicago Botanic Gardens this fall and is in the boutique at Esther's Place. 

So my lesson to you is to do what is best for your art. You might scream a little inside, or It might scream a little at you, but it's not as scary as it seems. The true test of an artist is their ability to take things to edge even when it pushes them. That's when we grow and expand and our world broadens. 

Autumn Cowl with Feathered Brooch
Nuno Felted Accessory

Habotai silk is used in this richly textured nuno felted cowl that makes a lovely accessory for brisk fall days. Dress it up with a chic leather jacket and boots or wear it with your favorite colorful jacket. It's easy to wear and beautiful with dazzling fall colors and sparkle. The feathered brooch accents delightfully and is removable for easy care. What a great seasonal piece for your accessory wardrobe! 
 

 

In inspiration Tags leather, Wool, Fine Art of Fiber, fashion, fashion show, nuno felting, accessory, creative, wearable art, beads, silk, cowl
IMG_3688 (1).JPG

The creation of.... Shibori Soiree

Natasha Lewis December 6, 2016

Many times, I get inspired from a single piece of fabric. In this case, that piece took me down a long path but the destination was worth it! (And the journey was not too bad either!) 

July. I was up in Milwaukee for the Handweaver's Guild of America Convergence event. I had one day to enjoy seeing the vendors and to see my fashion show garments on display. My husband came with, and we made a nice few days vacation at Kohler Andrea State Park. It was the perfect time to renew the creativity that was in summer slump. 

I walked past a vendor with tupperwares of fabric. Why are we drawn to tupperwares of fabric? It beckons to us... whispering "dig thru for treasure" and we are lured in. What tempted me was the fact they were Italian lambskin remnants that had been shibori dyed. And they were big enough to make a back panel for a vest. And they were reasonable. Very reasonable. In fact, reasonable enough to make me wish I hadn't gotten just one. Dang! 

October. Fashion show is nearing. I must get working. In a nuno felted yardage class I was teaching for the Haute Couture Club of Chicago, I thought I could "wing it". I created a beautiful piece of gray and chartreuse nuno felt. 

It's beautiful isn't it? It's a shame I didn't bring the leather piece with me. It is chartreuse. And that leather is definitely more in the mint range. Not chartreuse in the slightest way. Call me anal or perfectionist, but I am very particular when it comes to color matching. I don't like matchy-matchy... which is a good thing because you can rarely hit it perfectly, but I am a stickler for having value and saturation work together.   

Since I did want to bring the shibori component into the nuno felt, I knew I was going to do some dyeing. I figured a little of this and a little of that and my color would come out perfectly. Well, in the end I did get a color but the journey there was not direct. We all have those times of problem solving, don't we? Road blocks in our creativity that can either spur us to brilliance or send yet another project to the closet of UFO's (un-finished-objects) 

Late October. Time to get busy. Looking at the fabric, it starts to take on a life of its' own. I start early one morning (I love creating in the quiet morning hours) with a Chobani Tropical Escapes yogurt and a cup of Earl Gray tea by my side. Breakfast of... champions? Starving artists? The crazy? 

With a vintage mannequin and a mouthful of pins, I start to pin the fabric together. A tuck, a pleat, a few pins here begins the process. I don't work with patterns so my style is a unique blend of working with the fabric I have created and finding the best way to wear it. After an hour, I have a sample to carefully try on. (Carefully as the pins are very pointy!!!) Following the first trial, I begin the cutting and re-pinning. Then comes a second trial. Succeeding this is finally the sewing machine for my side and shoulder seams.

One of the beauties of nuno felt is the fact it doesn't fray. And even though my two fabrics were very different, they contained similar properties. This makes assembly easier in part. Once it was together can the final touches of adding closure snaps. The vest can be worn several ways, either with a shawl collar with a pop of color or a more demure closed style featuring the shibori patterning. I love giving versatility to a garment.

This piece was featured in the Fine Art of Fiber Fashion Show at the Chicago Botanic Gardens in early November.  It is also featured in my holiday wearable art boutique at Esther's Place

What a journey! Every piece I create has a story and a journey. As an artist, each piece of art has a little piece of us. When these garments find their new home, they also have a unique history of how they were born. I feel it makes something just even that much more special!

Shibori Soiree
Shibori Dyed Nuno Felt and Lambskin Vest
Size Small
A meeting of two entirely different fabrics comes together harmoniously in this vest for a piece perfect for every outing. Soft and supple shibori dyed lambskin makes a stunning back of the garment. The theme is carried into the front with shibori dyed, nuno felted fabric. A truly unique piece inspired by a singular piece of fabric. 

 

In inspiration Tags fiber art, Convergence, Chicago Botanic Gardens, wearable art, nuno felting, fashion, vest, wool, woo, silk, Fine Art of Fiber

Inside the mind of the artist

A photographic journey of creativity at work, while in progress and what inspires the artistry of Natasha Lehrer Lewis 

Biography

Interweaving the worlds of art, education and agriculture together are the passion of Natasha Lehrer Lewis' life. As a shepherd, she strives to represent the beauty of creation in her work. She dyes, spins and felts the fibers, starting at the source while infusing depth and meaning to the pieces. Her portfolio includes installation pieces, wearables and sculpture. Her blend of vintage inspiration, romantic styling, strong color theory and uninhibited originality make her work and teaching a trademark for creativity in the fiber arts community. 

natashalehrerlewisart@gmail.com 

 (331) 643-9697