Northshore Adventures

On the snowiest week of the season, I had the fabulous adventure of teaching and presenting at this lively guild based in the Northbrook, IL area. All the snow from the season decided to fall on those couple of days, or so it seems. My poor husband does snow plowing and it was a pretty long shift, so he didn't have much time to miss me being away. Funny how things work out! Everyday we woke up to more snow, until I felt like I was watching the movie "Groundhog Day" play out before my eyes. 

That didn't stop us from having a great time! I presented a brand new program to the guild, one that I titled "Inside the Mind of the Artist". I was thrilled they enjoyed as much as I do, the stories behind the art pieces and the inspiration that brought them to life. It was like a walk down memory lane for me! Ahhh, the attachment an artist has to their work is a bittersweet one- you love making and basking in your creations but you need to make room for new pieces and new inspiration by letting them go. Though I'm not a mother, there is a bit of that concept I think we experience in every piece of art we make. 

The guild hosted a mask class, which they invited me to join in on. I admit masks are not my thing but I LOVED this! It was so fun to just let go and create and let the materials take me away. I called my mask "Spring in Disguise" which is ironic because here it is, April, and sweet spring is definitely surprising us with snow showers and plummeting temperatures. It's certainly in disguise. 

I took off and explored the downtown Winnetka area, where I discovered some unique artisan galleries and shops. Vivid Gallery had a fabulous fiber art exhibit and I thoroughly enjoyed chatting with the owner and gallery curator. We talked art, fiber, business, image, marketing and a thousand other threads. It's terrific connecting with other business owners as passionate about their work as I am! The exhibit of Marianne Burr was breathtakingly stunning. Her bold shapes and colors were terrific, and I loved talking with Cynthia about the stories behind each one. 

My vest workshop was off to a great start with that perfect amount of creative fuel, and Tuesday we started on two days of design, felting and construction. I was very excited to bring the concept of making a nuno felted piece of fabric and then using draping techniques to craft it into a low or no-sew vest. The vests require bit of specific shaping, so we work right on student's bodies to custom create a vest as unique as them. No two are the same. 

We started out laying out layers of silk fabric, then two of wool. By the end of Tuesday, everyone had designed and wet down the surface. That was a big job! There was a lot of water but everyone was a good sport and we put those towels to good use. We were creating 2.5 yards of felt fabric, so my students were like felting warriors training for battle... this was boot camp for sure! Watch the surface transform through the day! 

The second day was where we had to use our imaginations and make this fabric into a garment! It was through vision, cutting, hot water, selective agitation and faith that these vests were born. Here are some pictures of the progress: 

I hope this workshop inspired, as did the presentation. I love bringing the concept of wool as wearable art into the world, and sharing my skills and inspiration with others. I find it invigorating! I did end up getting home in between snow storms that Thursday and spent some quality time with hubby... riding in the plow truck and being his little sidewalk shovel-er...Fun times! 

Getting creative...

I had this conversation with a customer and it made me reflect. Yes, it is hard to find the time to create. Especially for me, Spring, Summer and Fall are times of creating life on the farm. It means early mornings, long days and late nights. My hands get rough and my back aches. In-spite of this,  it offers moments of beauty in so many ways. Dewy plants. Mothers nuzzling newborn lambs. Rich colors getting plucked from dark soil. 

These moments feed my soul in a different way. They go in a reservoir where inspiration draws from for the colors that get painted across my art. Moments get tucked away and become stories such as these I tell to you.  

Yet the need to create is always there. So I must find the time. 

Many times, I can only find the time when I instill upon myself a deadline. These make me push aside all other priorities and put my art first. It's really hard to do! Really, really hard to do. So many things vie for attention. However strong the pull, I know that unless I put art first, it will not get done. 

As I started to create, something wonderful happened. I felt a calmness and yet a surge of energy pass through my system. I found myself thinking less about everything else and focusing on how the fibers felt in my hands. How the colors blended. How rhythmic the rolling was. 

Creating

swept

me

away.

It took me out of the moment, out of the stresses and transformed me. 

I was expecting to be stressed by the anticipation of having to create for an upcoming deadline, and instead I found just the opposite effect. We so often cannot find creativity on our own. We need a little nudge. For me it was a deadline. For someone else, it might be coming to a class here at Esther's Place. Others, it might be a knitting group, like our lovely Friday ladies that come to work on projects. In any shape or form, motivation to seek after creativity sometimes comes from outside yourself. 

So in reflection, I am learning more about myself and my art. But one thing I do know and have always known. Creativity was something planted in me by the Creator of every good and perfect thing. It makes me feel like I'm fulfilling a little purpose in my life, which in turns, brightens my corner of world just a little bit more. 

The Creation of.... Autumn Cowl

This cowl is a favorite of mine. Nuno felted and made with habotai silk, it has a touch-me-kind-of texture. I love the way the heavier fabric creates so much more surface dimension. It does take more effort to felt it, but every time I look back, I feel it is worth it. 

This was a seamless piece, meaning I used a resist that the silk was wrapped around. The seams are covered with wool so no sewing is required! You might recall that I originally got into nuno felting because of the no-sew-allure. But alas, it led me to sewing, so the joke's on me I suppose. 

I love trapping sequins in the surface of the nuno felt. Laid on top of the silk and trapped by my top layer of wool, this was a technique I first devised as a method to - gasp! avoid sewing! I first did this on a beautiful holiday poinsettia shawl with tiny red sequins. The sequins are more to decorate the back rather than the front, as they rarely show through the wool. However, with a flip of the scarf, you see the delightful back of it and the surprise of sparkle rewards. I like to have the back look just as appealing, especially on a scarf, because I know that despite all efforts, scarves will flip flop as you wear them, and with a little added effort in the design stage, the back can be beautiful too. You can even wear it reversed for a subtle color with texture and sparkle. It's a nice option to wear it with a print or something busier, when the occasion calls. 

My surface design is full of wonderful autumnal colors, sparkle thread (I love that thread with baby sequins on the thread!), curly Lincoln wool locks, and Angelina sparkles. All those fun additions were trapped by gossamer layers of wool on top, and the result is little bits peeking through. It reminds me of glorious fall days where the sun is warm but bright and makes the morning dew sparkle on every fresh turned leaf. One of my favorite seasons! 

The felting process totally transforms it, breathing life into and merging my fibers together so now these two very different materials are made one. It's truly miraculous, and yet so very simple. Soap. Water. Rhythmic rolling. It's then that I am alone with my thoughts and my art. It's very relaxing and rejuvenating.  When I am done with this process, something beautiful is born, something transformed. 

I will be honest. When I finished this, I did like it but something was not quite right. It didn't lay right on your neck and I didn't want to do what I knew I had to. So like all things, we put it away. For months. All projects do not end in artistic brilliance. I love it when they do! I feel like the heavens open and a host of angels sing the hallelujah chorus and a beam of sunlight shining down. But for the rest of those times that are slightly less glorious, I put on my thinking cap. Truly, not much of my work is done the minute I finish felting. Sometimes there are alterations and more felting to follow. Sometimes there are embellishments, like beads added, or thread painting done to add interest. Sometimes things just sit until I can think up the next path.

So I did what I had to do. I cut it. Nooooooooooo you say, as a scream of anguish is let out. Cut!?! What!?! Isn't there some other way? Some other option?

Sooner or later, we all attack things with scissors. and ack, it wasn't that bad after all. Move slow and deliberate. Remember every flaw and mistake is just a design opportunity! (She says shakily with scissors in hand!) I cut that cowl and added a twist and sewed it back together. An expert surgeon making wrong right again. It worked and that cowl was more beautiful than ever. I added a really fun pin made with... guess it.... leather from Shibori Soiree.  I even used some felt to make a "feather" which I really loved, along of course with real feathers. Some dangling charms and crystals and it was complete. The pin is removable for washing, a feature very important to me. I loved that pin and definitely want to play with more of that style and fabric combination.

This piece was shown at the Fine Art of Fiber Fashion Show at the Chicago Botanic Gardens this fall and is in the boutique at Esther's Place. 

So my lesson to you is to do what is best for your art. You might scream a little inside, or It might scream a little at you, but it's not as scary as it seems. The true test of an artist is their ability to take things to edge even when it pushes them. That's when we grow and expand and our world broadens. 

Autumn Cowl with Feathered Brooch
Nuno Felted Accessory

Habotai silk is used in this richly textured nuno felted cowl that makes a lovely accessory for brisk fall days. Dress it up with a chic leather jacket and boots or wear it with your favorite colorful jacket. It's easy to wear and beautiful with dazzling fall colors and sparkle. The feathered brooch accents delightfully and is removable for easy care. What a great seasonal piece for your accessory wardrobe! 
 

The creation of.... Shibori Soiree

Many times, I get inspired from a single piece of fabric. In this case, that piece took me down a long path but the destination was worth it! (And the journey was not too bad either!) 

July. I was up in Milwaukee for the Handweaver's Guild of America Convergence event. I had one day to enjoy seeing the vendors and to see my fashion show garments on display. My husband came with, and we made a nice few days vacation at Kohler Andrea State Park. It was the perfect time to renew the creativity that was in summer slump. 

I walked past a vendor with tupperwares of fabric. Why are we drawn to tupperwares of fabric? It beckons to us... whispering "dig thru for treasure" and we are lured in. What tempted me was the fact they were Italian lambskin remnants that had been shibori dyed. And they were big enough to make a back panel for a vest. And they were reasonable. Very reasonable. In fact, reasonable enough to make me wish I hadn't gotten just one. Dang! 

October. Fashion show is nearing. I must get working. In a nuno felted yardage class I was teaching for the Haute Couture Club of Chicago, I thought I could "wing it". I created a beautiful piece of gray and chartreuse nuno felt. 

It's beautiful isn't it? It's a shame I didn't bring the leather piece with me. It is chartreuse. And that leather is definitely more in the mint range. Not chartreuse in the slightest way. Call me anal or perfectionist, but I am very particular when it comes to color matching. I don't like matchy-matchy... which is a good thing because you can rarely hit it perfectly, but I am a stickler for having value and saturation work together.   

Since I did want to bring the shibori component into the nuno felt, I knew I was going to do some dyeing. I figured a little of this and a little of that and my color would come out perfectly. Well, in the end I did get a color but the journey there was not direct. We all have those times of problem solving, don't we? Road blocks in our creativity that can either spur us to brilliance or send yet another project to the closet of UFO's (un-finished-objects) 

Late October. Time to get busy. Looking at the fabric, it starts to take on a life of its' own. I start early one morning (I love creating in the quiet morning hours) with a Chobani Tropical Escapes yogurt and a cup of Earl Gray tea by my side. Breakfast of... champions? Starving artists? The crazy? 

With a vintage mannequin and a mouthful of pins, I start to pin the fabric together. A tuck, a pleat, a few pins here begins the process. I don't work with patterns so my style is a unique blend of working with the fabric I have created and finding the best way to wear it. After an hour, I have a sample to carefully try on. (Carefully as the pins are very pointy!!!) Following the first trial, I begin the cutting and re-pinning. Then comes a second trial. Succeeding this is finally the sewing machine for my side and shoulder seams.

One of the beauties of nuno felt is the fact it doesn't fray. And even though my two fabrics were very different, they contained similar properties. This makes assembly easier in part. Once it was together can the final touches of adding closure snaps. The vest can be worn several ways, either with a shawl collar with a pop of color or a more demure closed style featuring the shibori patterning. I love giving versatility to a garment.

This piece was featured in the Fine Art of Fiber Fashion Show at the Chicago Botanic Gardens in early November.  It is also featured in my holiday wearable art boutique at Esther's Place

What a journey! Every piece I create has a story and a journey. As an artist, each piece of art has a little piece of us. When these garments find their new home, they also have a unique history of how they were born. I feel it makes something just even that much more special!

Shibori Soiree
Shibori Dyed Nuno Felt and Lambskin Vest
Size Small
A meeting of two entirely different fabrics comes together harmoniously in this vest for a piece perfect for every outing. Soft and supple shibori dyed lambskin makes a stunning back of the garment. The theme is carried into the front with shibori dyed, nuno felted fabric. A truly unique piece inspired by a singular piece of fabric. 
 

The Creation of... Midnight Echoes

Sometimes I need to change it up. I get stuck in creating old classics- styles that are loved and adored and sell well. But there are new classics to be found and discovered! And that was my ambition with this piece. 

I needed something new and interesting. Trendy and chic. Where do you go for inspiration? PINTEREST!!!! Yeahhhhh.... five hours later and a few dozen pins for things like chocolate caramel brownies, felted flower brooches, diy kitchen hacks, and more, I came up with the "it" item of the season. The sleeveless blazer or long vest. Bridging two seasons and many decades of fashion style, it's cute! 

My goal was to make a more artistic version of this style. A lot of nuno felted vests seem to be one size fits all and have a flow and swing to them. I wanted something more tailored and heavier, like a wool fabric rather than a gossamer nuno felt. 

I did calculations for drawing out a resist- a piece of plastic that goes inside the piece so I can create a seamless garment. When calculating, it has to be a third larger to allow for shrinkage. Basically, my resist looked like an extra large hospital gown. But I've done this enough times to not lose faith.

Starting with a ginormous piece of bubble wrap and two large tables set up in my studio, I set out for this adventure with gusto. First layer: charcoal silk gauze. Second layer: turquoise merino wool laid in thin wisps in one direction. Third layer: blend on the drum carder shades of turquoise into navy into dark green into charcoal into black with bamboo and firestar intermingling. Fourth layer: embellishments of yarn, silk pieces, bamboo and more on the bottom of the front panels. 

I was very fortunate to have some help from my friend Jodi on the wetting and rolling process. This is quite the process, and many towels get used. It's a real exercise rolling as many as 1200 times or more to fuse the fibers to the silk fabric. This agitation forms a new fabric and causes the overall shape to shrink. 

At the very end, I cut the front down the center to make the vest. This is such a nerve-wracking moment. You know you have to do it, but cutting an intact piece still causes beads of sweat to form on my brow. But it's always best to cut at the end so you form strong felt, so it must be done. A little more rolling, slamming and kneading and it's transformed into a sleek, styled garment! 

Now for the finishing touches- the collar, beading, shaping and more. These little details can really make the garment. Sometimes these details are the last to go on, or even get foregone for lack of time or patience, but you know the true artistry when you observe them. 

This piece has been in the Uncommon Threads Fashion Show in St. Charles, IL and Fine Art of Fiber Fashion Show and is available in the boutique at Esther's Place.  

Midnight Echoes
Nuno Felted Sleeveless Blazer Vest
Size Small/ Medium
A fushion of hand dyed silk fabric and layers of wool blended with bamboo and firestar, this elegant piece is perfect for every occasion. Wear it with skinny jeans and a tee for an afternoon of shopping or with black leggings and accent jewelry for a night out. The contrasting shawl collar and pockets add to the fine detailing. Light yet warm, it changes with the seasons. 
 

Prize Winners!

I wanted to give you an update.... my dress and vest both took ribbons at the MidAtlantic Quilt Festival Wearable Art Competition! The dress, Silver Lining, took first place in the ensemble category, and the vest took an honorable mention in the vest, coat or jacket category. 

Very exciting! And for more news, be watching at the Handweaver's Guild of America Convergence 2016  coming to Milwaukee, WI July 30th-August 6th. These two pieces will be in the fashion show there as well! 

I have had work in their Yardage Exhibit, All Media Exhibit, and Fashion Show, in the past years in Albuquerque, NM, Long Beach, CA and Providence, RI. Their event is every two years. It features a vendor hall, a myriad of classes, lectures and workshops, and great connections to the fiber art pulse in the region. 

We're going to make a weekend of it and go, my husband and I. We're thinking of camping at the breathtaking Kohler-Andrae State Park. It's right on Lake Michigan, with sand dunes, forests and quiet peacefulness. Then we can drive down to Milwaukee to enjoy some night life, food and of course, the show! It's a great get-a-way that's not too far away. And since the last Convergence I attended was Long Beach, I am already anticipating gathering lots of new supplies, ideas and inspiration. Stay tuned! I'll definitely  be sharing that experience with all of you. 

Hit the Road!

I had an exciting discovery in the mailbox today! Flipping through the usual stack of bills, junk and business paperwork, I saw two envelopes from  Mancuso Quilt Festival  ! I had applied to the Wearable Art Competition, entering my dress, Silver Lining, and vest, Twilight Haze. 

With bated breath, I ripped open the first envelope. Dear Ms. Lehrer Lewis.... your piece has been accepted! Breathlessly, I opened the second one. 

Both were accepted and will be heading to Hampton, Virginia within the week. This will be my fourth year entering this show. My dress L' Amore di Vini and vest November Skies last year swept the show! I am even more excited about this year, as I feel my two pieces feature a lot more detail and technique from last year. 

Wish I could be going with them to see the show! It runs Feb. 25-28th, 2016. I'll keep you posted on how they do! 

Corn, Corn Everywhere

When I create a garment, I also have a specific idea of how I'd like to photograph it. As any artist will know, as frustrating as it can be, your art is only as good as your photography. When I jury my pieces for shows, the only thing that juror will see is a digital image. My art doesn't mean anything if that image doesn't accurately represent it. This was a really hard thing to learn early on in my days creating art, but I am so thankful for a couple of really helpful people who have made all the difference in the world. 

One of these people is my mother-in-law. She's been absolutely fabulous to be a fashion photographer with a very crazy artist here at the helm. My crazy ideas could get the best of me one of these days.....

I had only a few days to get this piece photographed before it left for a show. And I wanted to photograph it while standing in a field of golden corn with a stretching panorama of endless sky in the background, maybe even a sunrise. Sounds simple and straightforward, right? 

Did I mention this was in October? That time of the year where I'm from, there's combines running 24/7 to get those fields of golden corn harvested. So the corn field I was thinking of using actually got combined a few days before our photo shoot. Since plan A was foiled, we went for plan B- and ran from field to field looking for brighter colored corn, corn that didn't look weather-beaten and corn that was facing an eastern sky. 

It was a blustery fall day, as well, so the brisk wind made the dress dance and move.... sometimes not necessarily in the right ways! I had to hold the edge down with my toes on a few of the shots! It was a challenge, but you know me.... when I get an idea in my head, there's no turning back! 

My mother-in-law was gracious and captured some lovely images of the piece. I do love the idea of shooting in our beautiful rural surroundings. It brings to life the panorama that oftentimes inspired the piece in the first place. I hope to try more farmland-backdrops in the future. There is nothing quite like beautiful art in a beautiful place! 

Blue Skies and Silver Linings

Pictured above is one of my newest runway pieces, a gown titled "Silver Lining" . I completed the dress in October of 2015. My inspiration came from the fabric of the skirt. My mom actually dyed this beautiful shade of blue-gray that reminded me of dull skies. Skies that you don't whether they plan to dump big plitter-platters of rain on you, or plan to break open with a glorious sun beaming through their  thick cover. 

She offered me the fabric, which at one point was being considered for her mother-of-the-bride dress. Since it didn't get used for that, it was now free to be invented into something else! I had yards and yards of this mystery fabric, that shifted and changed colors with every rustle of it's wonderful crinkly drape. 

The top I created the fabric for, using my hand dyed habotai silk and then nuno felting a blend of merino wools into it. Like a lot of my recent pieces, I have been exploring using the silk side of my nuno felt as my featured side. The nuno process of fusing wool into the silk fabric creates this amazing texture. I added some pleating before felting to accentuate the texture. 

I really wanted to create strong diagonal lines on the corset-style bodice with my silk and feel I was able to accomplish that. I emphasized it  with the beading, a feature I love the look of, but always regret about 5 hours into the beadwork, when squinty eyes, a headache and at least 100 seed beads decorating my floor remind me not to put beads on my next piece! Yet I always do....

I love the asymmetry of the design. Creating designs has always been a favorite part of the process for me. I am excited to be working with Marilyn Donoho, an amazing seamstress who really understands me and works with me to take my sketches, fabrics and vision to completion. 

This dress fits a size 8 beautifully, comfortably and elegantly. Perhaps the greatest joy for me was to be able to try it on and wear my dream and feel it come to life! That is truly the impetus for creativity!